Part travelogue, part diary, all foodie

January 01, 2008

Katy, Girls. Girls, Katy.

Since I'd been blathering on about Katy to my classmates for the whole of the 6 weeks that I was in school, and since two of my classmates, Sarah and Suzie, had taken on 1-week internships in the main kitchen of the Ritz and thus were still in town, I set up a lunch date so that they could meet Katy. One of our other classmates, Yuko, was in Paris for an extended stay and was getting ready to start more courses, so she was able to join us as well.

Sarah and Suzie were spending 8+ hours each day prepping vegetables, learning new techniques and recipes, and even plating some dishes...for paying customers...very cool.

Going through my research notes about where to eat in Paris, I kept seeing the name of one restaurant show up over and over on Chowhound and elsewhere. Mon Vieil Ami is a bistro just a couple of blocks away from Notre Dame, but on the Ile Saint Louis (Notre Dame is on the adjacent Ile de la Cité). Set in a very old building right on the main street that runs down the center of the island, they've chosen to "hip it up" a little - using modern tables, chairs and design, but retaining the amazing old exposed stone walls and enormous dark wood ceiling beams.

Suzie and Sarah met Katy and me at the Saint Germain metro stop nearest our hotel and we walked the mile or so to the bistro, meeting Yuko there. The day was beautifully sunny, but the wind was blowing and it was fri-gid! It wasn't unbearable as long as you kept moving, but it was certainly bracing.

We arrived at the restaurant and they sat us at a tall communal table to the left of the entry - there are also separate tables around the restaurant for parties of 2 or 4. The French couple seated right next to us greeted us as well...and became conversation partners through the rest of our meal...some in French, largely in English. The husband travelled the world for business, so he had been everywhere that each of us lived. Cool guy.

I just have to say that I've sat next to more nice people and started some great conversations over lunches and dinners in Paris. It was truly a warm place to be...even when it was cold.

Mon Vieil Ami is a modern bistro by Antoine Westermann specializes in Alsacienne cuisine, so there are german influences, various stews, soups, etc. We were blown away. The food was absolutely fabulous, but if you should choose to go, I heartily recommend sharing - the portions were huge - particularly the stews. I had a soup to start with cooked shrimp and decorative vegetables and herbs onto which they poured a lovely chestnut velouté (like a purée). I followed that with a Confit de Veau with roasted vegetables and fresh noodles served in a large dutch oven that was both huge and uh-maze-ing.

Suzie had this fabulous duck, also served in a dutch oven, perfectly cooked and seasoned, properly warm, and particularly enjoyable since it was not your traditional Parisienne bistro magret or confit.

The waiter was responsive, efficient...and had a very wry sense of humor. The only thing that caught me off guard was the wine.

I told him what we were having and what style of wine we were looking for. Rather than the typical pulling out of the wine list, pointing out various options and describing them, he just said "Ah", then walked off. He came back with a bottle of wine which, naturally, I expected he would show to me and describe. Nope. With nary a word, he opened the bottle and poured. I was a little shocked, but I tried it...and the wine was lovely...but I'd never had a waiter or sommelier do that before and wasn't sure that I liked the presumption. Nevertheless, it turned out well and he was great overall, so this is just an observation, not a complaint.

Over the course of nearly two hours, Katy, I and the girls enjoyed our several courses, Katy got to get a feel for my new friends and what it was like when we were all bantering back and forth at school every day, and we made some connections that I hope we can keep over the years as our travels bring us to Sarah's UK and China, Suzie's Thailand, and Yuko's Japan.

At the end of the day, we had a tremendous time and I can't help but recommend it - Mon Vieil Ami was truly fabulous.

No comments: